Until the First World War, the cheese market was a vital centre for the trade. In 1916, an average of three hundred tons of cheese were sold on every market day. At that time, the market went on until one o'clock at night. Since 1939, Alkmaar has been the only place in the Netherlands to maintain the cheese market tradition in this form. Every year, on 22 Fridays from mid-April to mid-September, the market takes place on the Waagplein. The amount of cheese sold now is not even 10% of what it was at the beginning of the 20th century, but the number of tourists has increased enormously. About 100,000 people from all over the world visit the cheese market in Alkmaar every year. today we were among them!
In the 17th century, cheese was traded on Fridays and Saturdays from May to All Saints’ Day. At that time, each group of cheese carriers (veem) had its own weighing house. In the 18th century, there was a cheese market four times a week. The cheese carriers’ guild did not have their own patron saint, or their own altar in church like other professional guilds such as the cobblers, coopers, coppersmiths and tanners. However, the biblical text from 1622 is still the device for the guild of Alkmaar:
"A false balance is abomination to the Lord, but a just weight is his delight" (Proverbs 11:1)
The Alkmaar cheese carriers’ guild is responsible for moving and weighing cheese during the cheese market on Fridays. The guild consists of four groups (vemen) of seven men each.
Each veem has its own colour: red, yellow, green or blue. We chose colours to cheer for(though we were the only ones doing this! Blue turned out to be the fastest-Danny's pick) The head of the four vemen is the 'cheese father', the supervisor. As a sign of his office, the cheese father carries a black stick with a silver knob. The cheese carriers wear the traditional costume: a white suit and a straw hat with a ribbon in the colour of their own veem. An experienced carrier is known as a vastman (a regular). Before then, he is known as a noodhulp (temporary assistant). The oldest cheese carrier in a veem is called the tasman (bagman). He can be recognised by the black leather bag he wears. The tasman puts the weights on the balance when the cheese is weighed.
Every two years, a leader is chosen for each veem: the overman. He can be recognised by a little silver escutcheon with a ribbon in the colour of his veem.
On Fridays, the square is prepared before the cheese carriers’ guild goes into action. The market inspector supervises the removal of the cheese from the trucks as they are positioned on the square in long rows by the zetters. When the bell is rung at ten o'clock, the zetters load the barrows and the cheese carriers carry them to the balance to weigh the cheese. Sworn weighing masters supervise the weighing and complete the weight slips. Meanwhile, on the square, traders and inspectors determine the quality of the cheese on offer. Haggling about the price takes place using the handjeklap system, literally clapping hands with other merchants.
When we arrived, a bit later than we had planned, the crowds were already 6 deep around the outside of the fenced in square. Jerry was parking the car and as I circled with the gang I was trying to come up with a plan. Suddenly out of the Dutch coming over the static-y microphone I hear in English "special seating for children and people with disabilities...GOD is Good! I barreled right up to the weighing house, identified myself as having 4 qualifying folks, and the man opened the gate and led us to a bench, inside the fence, in the warm sunshine with the best view in the whole place!! Holy cheese! The carrilion rang at 10:00 and the running,clapping,weighing began. We cheered on our colours and took in the spectacle. Two of the inspectors came around with a wheel of Gouda and a corkscrew like tool. I got to push it in and twist and pull out a sample, which we all got to taste! Danny got to try as well. Danny went over to a sledge to ask if he could try hefting one of the wheels to see how heavy it was...they said sure! He and another girl picked up wheels of cheese and went to put them on the sledge when suddenly the two carriers put Danny and the girl on the sledge with the wheels in their laps, picked up the sledge and took off around the square at a brisk trot! It was so cool! Danny was thrilled! Gary and the girls got to take some great photos with the veems. A wonderful event.
We walked around Alkmaar a bit, taking in the narrow beautiful od streets, a neat ship, a bridge opening to let a barge through and all the canals. What a great little village.
We then headed south to drop Jerry at the airport, (a dump and run) and then continued on towards home. And you knw us...when it's time for a late lunch and we're passing Delft...IKEA!! Our excuse this time is that Gary has never been to Ikea! So it was meatballs for everyone and a lovely walk through the whole store, both floors! Then a quick AH run and home. Gary wrote up four postcards and Charlotte did one. They were very proud of their accomplishment. Danny walked with them down to the box to post them.
Jerry's co-worker Mahiel and his family lent us a bag of movies that will play on the Dutch DVD, so after a late supper of, what else, grilled gouda cheese sandwiches! the kids watched Agent Cody Banks. What a terrific day!!
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| bests seats in the house, let the markt begin! |
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| the cheese wheels are lined up to be inspected and weighed |
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| Danny charms a Dutch maiden |
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| the peak of the guild hall |
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| Gouda cheese (they pronounce it Gow-da) |
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| the inspectors let me test some |
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